Sure,
these versions are often rough, and the words can struggle to right themselves
on the page. Sometimes the words even wobble, later, when you take more time to
think them through. But when you discover a wine that makes you think, that
makes you feel, there’s this immediate rush to get those words to the page —
before you forget them or, worse, they refuse to reappear. These are the words
that capture the emotion of a wine, that both reign it in and let it fly, and
that, finally, reveal it for what it is: Graceful, or bland, or powerful, or
watered down, or gentle, or challenged, or just plain not ready. And often, and
to their credit, drafts do that before anyone else has had a hand in the
process.
Here
are some of my first impressions of wines that impacted me:
2013
Blindfold White Wine, California, The Prisoner Wine Co.: This wine is good, and
it won’t disorient you. Blindfolded or not, just consider it mellow. This blend
of Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc and a few other
grapes has a pineapple nose and a smooth texture.
“This
wine was a lot of fun to make as we were not constrained by a specific region
or varietal,” said winemaker Jen Beloz. She worked with vintner Dave Phinney,
the original creator of The Prisoner, as that wine was sold and spun off into
its own company. The Blindfold is actually supposed to be The Prisoner’s white
wine companion, according to K&L Wine Merchants. “We used Chardonnay as our
canvas and layered on interesting aromatic varietals that complimented the base
to create something that is truly unlike anything out there.”
The
Wine Advocate’s Robert Parker agreed, saying he wishes more California wineries
would consider using such innovative blends. 14.2 percent alcohol. $32.99.
Winetree East.
2011
Joseph Phelps Pinot Noir, Freestone Vineyards, Estate Grown, Sonoma Coast,
California: I chilled it and opened it way too cold, but it still had a bright
blackberry nose. This Pinot Noir is tannic and a bit bitter — it’s on the more
serious side and has a darker color than most California Pinot Noir I’m
familiar with. It’s tightly controlled and tightly wound; it doesn’t fall apart
easily. Very compact, dense. Good with baked Coho salmon from The Fresh Market.
The bitterness in the wine was enhanced by the bitterness in sautéed turnip
greens with bacon (note to self: don’t pair these three again.) But with mostly
bacon, this Pinot is juicy, luscious. This might be better paired with a fatty
dish like pork. It has black pepper elements. I really like this wine. Some
Pinots are so sweet they are inconsequential — throwaways you can quickly
dismiss with the flick of your wrist. Not this one. It has more personality and
elegance. 13.5 percent alcohol. $41.99. Friar Tuck Beverage in St. Louis.
2012
Machete, California Red Wine,Orin Swift Cellars, Napa: Do all wine roads lead
to Dave Phinney? No, but many of mine do. The Machete is a blend of Petite
Sirah, Syrah and Grenache, and at 15.7 percent alcohol, it hits a high note on
the fun spectrum. Pair this one with cheese, or with butter and bread, since
the ending tannins can hit you pretty hard. Honestly, at that level of alcohol
and tannins, this wine should cellar well for several more years. But its
blackcurrant and cherry flavors are both appealing and likeable, especially
with something creamy. Petite Sirah is Phinney’s favorite grape varietal, and
his wine notes describe it as massive and powerful, with intense color and
structure. I’d agree. $52.99. Friar Tuck Beverage in St. Louis.
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